Tortorella Pools FAQs

Obviously, there is no substitute for proper supervision and pool safety. Unfortunately, there have been an increasing number of reports of fatal accidents involving swimming pools. A pool alarm can notify you should a child fall or jump into the water unexpectedly.

There are a variety of alarms available on the market today. The simplest sit on the coping of the pool and are able to detect when an object larger than 18 lbs. breaks the surface of the water. When this occurs, a loud alarm sounds. The alarm is easily disarmed with a personalized keypad code located on top of the device. Other alarm systems are more intricate: for example, a sonar alarm that’s installed during pool construction can detect anything that has fallen near the bottom of the pool. This device is also linked with a loud alarm that is disarmed on the control panel located near the system area.

There are alarm systems that can be installed underneath your pool coping – out of sight and out of the way – to preserve poolside appearance. These can be used on irregular shaped pools and those with automatic pool covers.

The ASTM standard for pool alarms specifies a minimum weight of 18 lbs. (8 kg.)

Check to make sure the alarm has passed the stringent AFNOR test for high winds.

Probably. With most systems, you will need one detector for the pool and one for the spa.

Pools should be disinfected continuously by a chemical that imparts a residual effect. Chlorine is a type of “disinfectant,” also called a “sanitizer.” Disinfectants or sanitizers destroy living microorganisms and bacteria, preventing the transmission of disease. There are several types of disinfectants, such as chlorine, bromine, ozone and UV light. Public pools need a disinfectant with a measurable residual.

There are two kinds of chlorine found in pool/spa water: free (able to destroy microorganisms) and combined (unable to destroy microorganisms). Public pools and spas should have a free residual chlorine level of a minimum of 1.0 parts per million (ppm) if cyanuric acid is not used, and 1.5 ppm if a cyanuric acid is used. There should always be an operable automatic chlorinator when the pool and/or spa is open. The automatic chlorinator can be adjusted to maintain a safe level of chlorine. Chlorine should not exceed 5.0 ppm.

Also called “stabilizer” or “conditioner,” cyanuric acid is added to swimming pools and spas to slow down the decomposition of chlorine from the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays. With a correct dose, it can save up to 80% of normal chlorine consumption during peak sunny months. With an incorrect balance, it can substantially decrease the effectiveness of the chlorine. Cyanuric acid is found in most chlorine tablets or can be added as a separate chemical.

Yes. An in-floor cleaning and circulation system, installed when your pool is installed, works automatically to minimize maintenance time and maximize your enjoyment. There are also robotic cleaning devices that can be used in virtually any type of pool.

That depends on what’s most important to you. With its pop-up cleaning units, an in-floor cleaning system can be more convenient and energy efficient than a robotic model, which must be removed from the water when the pool is in use. The robots are usually less expensive, however, and also can be easily added to the maintenance of an existing pool.

In-floor cleaning nozzles direct dirt and debris to the main drain, where they’re collected and transported to the collection bin for removal.

Elements such as water falls, solar heating, spa spillovers and in-line chlorinators can take away flow and pressure from the in-floor cleaning system. When the in-floor system does not have proper flow and power, it will not clean properly. That’s why it’s important to have your pool designed by experienced professionals like J. Tortorella.

There is probably a blockage in the nozzle. Remove the nozzle and clear the blockage.

A quality robotic cleaner works on all residential size, shape and surface pools.

Use it as often as necessary. Most manufacturers suggest two or three times a week.

None. Most only require a simple plug in to a power outlet. They’re separate from your pool’s filtration system, and no extra pumps or hoses are required.

Manufacturers suggest that you DO NOT use the robot while swimming.

Contact us, and we will refer you to a nationwide network of service centers that can help you.

We suggest you contact a reputable, licensed electrician in your area. Just have a question regarding your pool lights? Please see our Lighting FAQs.

Every pool needs a filter and pump to properly sanitize the water. While there are many systems options, all work pretty much the same way. The pool pump pulls water through the main drain and skimmers, forcing water through the filter, which separates particles from the water to keep it clear and free of organic materials. Past the filter, some systems have optional equipment such as heaters and chlorinators. After water passes through these system components, it returns to the pool.

Make sure that time clock or automated control is correctly set. Eight to 12 hours a day is usually a good benchmark for circulation time, but this does vary based on the size of the pool and the horsepower of the pump. Of course, as motors age, their efficiency decreases.

That depends on the age and efficiency of your system. Some of today’s high-efficiency systems can be run 24 hours a day and still use less than half the electricity of an older system – yet do a fine job keeping your water clear. To find the time length that’s best for your pool, consider how often it’s used, if you’re continually finding large debris in the water, as well as the amount of sun exposure. But remember, cutting filtration time below the manufacturer’s recommended time period to conserve electricity (while admirable) could lead to higher chemical costs to keep the water clear.

That depends on what type of filter you have: Sand, D.E. (Diatomaceous Earth) or cartridge. The first two are manufactured for backwards flow; a cartridge filter is not. For maintenance, it’s therefore best to consult your filter manufacturer’s specific instructions.

Yes. Without the strainer basket, debris will get in. Be sure to clean your strainer basket, as well as the skimmer baskets, so water flow is not obstructed and the pump is not overworked.

No. Pool pumps should never operate without water. If left running without water for a long period of time, heat generated by the pump could damage its PVC pipe and other system components.

Yes, this is normal in most cases.

This usually indicates a defective shaft seal, which prevents water from leaking into the electric motor, causing corrosion and bearing failure: a main reason that some motor shafts “seize up” over the winter.

There could be debris in the skimmer or pump baskets, your filter may need backwashing, or there could be a blockage in the plumbing. Check the first two; if the problem persists, call a service technician.

Check for water damage. Check the power – use a volt meter to check voltage – as well as the breakers and switches to ensure it’s electrically powered. If you can’t determine the cause, call a technician.

While the motor’s internal cooling fan can be heard, there are actions you can take to lessen it. Try to reduce the vibration by placing a piece of carpet or rubber under the pump. Also, make sure the pump is level and that no suction lines are higher than the unit. If noise has never been an issue before, your pump may be leaking or your bearings may be old. Check it out to prevent extensive damage.

There could be an air leak on the suction side of the pump. Make sure the line is free of obstruction and that the impeller is still attached; if it’s not, it will need to be replaced. If the pump is elevated above the deck, a check valve may be needed for easier priming.

While gas is best for heating pools for short periods of time, solar power is another viable option and better for long-term heating.

Gas heaters use natural or propane fuel. The gas is burned in a combustion chamber where the heat is transferred to the pool water. Operation requires a storage tank for propane gas, or hookup to natural gas, where available.

Gas heaters are rated in BTU output and are tested by government standards. Their efficiency ranges from 60% to 90%. Efficiency may decrease over a period of time due to scaling in the burner or heat exchanger.

That depends on the size and shape of your pool, how much sun it gets, how long you’d like to keep your pool open as well as the desired water temperature.

It is strongly recommended that electric and gas hookups be made by a professional contractor.

Absolutely. Depending on the weather, you can expect your solar pool heater to raise your pool temperature 2°F to 5°F each time the water passes through the system. With several days of good weather, this could equal an increase of 5°F to 15°F. To make the system even more effective, use a solar blanket at night to help hold in the heat.

During the hottest part of the summer, running the solar system at night can cool a pool to a more refreshing swimming temperature – down several degrees in one night if the conditions are right. You also may want to leave the solar blanket off at night to allow more heat to escape.

No, solar pool panels and controls are designed specifically to heat a large volume of water in a swimming pool and to operate in temperature ranges of 80°F to 100°F. Household space heating and household hot water are different applications of solar, requiring heating smaller volumes of household water to higher temperatures.

Solar pool heating system prices for a residential pool depend on the location and size of the pool, location of the solar panels, desired temperature and season, and type of pool equipment. Because of all the variables, it is impossible to give an accurate estimate without careful inspection of the site. If a pool owner heats their pool with natural gas through the normal swimming season, an investment in solar can pay for itself in two to three years.

The majority of residential solar pool heaters use an automatically controlled valve to divert the existing filtration flow to the solar panels, so there is no additional cost to operate the solar pool heater. Some pools might require an additional solar boost pump that would cost a few dollars per month to operate during the swimming season.

Modern solar collectors made of stabilized polypropylene can be expected to last between 15 to 20 years.

A pool cover prevents evaporation loss, particularly at night. The cover traps the solar heat that has been added during the day and is a great complement to the solar system. The solar system actively adds heat; the cover retains that heat passively.

Usually no special maintenance is required during the season. Modern electronic controls allow you to “set and forget” the solar heater. It is recommended that the panels be shut off and drained in the winter, which takes just a few minutes.

There are three popular choices: a time clock; an Aqualink control interface by Jandy and the IntelliTouch® system. A time clock works similar to the timer on most household devices. While simple to operate, most are limited in their functionality. An Aqualink control interface has the ability to program separate times for all system components – or multiple instances for one device – via its control panel. The IntelliTouch system works much like an Aqualink, and multiple settings can be programmed for any device. Please contact our service division for assistance in programming your system.

A niche is a housing that is permanently mounted in the pool wall, while the light is a “fixture” that is secured into the niche.

A 12V light receives its power from a transformer, which steps down 120V to 12V. 120V is your standard house voltage. Some areas of the country do not allow 120V lights. The brightness is equal for either voltage because brightness is measured by the bulb’s wattage.

NEVER ATTEMPT TO OPEN THE POOL LIGHT, JUNCTION BOX OR BREAKERS. CALL AN ELECTRICIAN. Before you do, make sure that the “Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter,” circuit breaker and any other switches are in the ON position.

NEVER ATTEMPT TO OPEN THE POOL LIGHT, JUNCTION BOX OR BREAKERS. CALL AN ELECTRICIAN. Before you do, make sure that the “Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter,” circuit breaker and any other switches are in the ON position.

It’s most likely the “Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter,” which protects bathers from getting shocked in your pool. If it’s tripping off, there is a problem. Call an electrician.

LEDs are light-emitting diodes. They are housed on a circuit board. The circuit board controls the color and intensity of each diode. Using red, green and blue diodes, different colors are created depending on the numbers of each color and their intensity.

The life expectancy for a LED light is 50,000 hours. The light will perform for more than 10,000 hours without any noticeable loss of brightness.

While a typical pool cover can prevent debris from entering your pool, it does not prevent children or pets from gaining access. All safety covers must conform to the Standard Performance Specification set by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and be able to support a certain amount of weight, not permit gaps that a child or pet could squeeze through and remove standing water.

A swimming pool is always a magnet for children. When you’re not around to supervise or your family is away from home, wandering children and pets from the neighborhood may attempt to enter your pool. Even if you have a locked gate (which is a great extra layer of protection), a determined toddler will often be able to breach it. A safety cover is an additional layer of protection, which also retains pool heat and decreases energy consumption.

There are a variety of safety pool covers that can be measured and customized to fit any size or shape.

While a safety cover meets ASTM guidelines to support the weight of a child or adult in an emergency, no one should walk on the cover, and children and pets should not play on top of it.

That’s up to you. All ASTM-certified covers provide superior protection. The choice between a mesh or solid cover is up to the preference of the user.

Collected water on a cover is a hazard in itself. There have unfortunately been cases of children and pets who have wandered out on a cover filled with water and slippery debris, become trapped and drowned. That is why the ASTM Performance Specification states that no pool cover can call itself a safety cover if it does not provide for water removal.

While it’s important to consider when you usually begin using your pool, it’s best to open it toward the end of freezing temperatures. When the water is cool, it is easier to sanitize and will require fewer chemicals. Another advantage of opening your pool earlier in the season is the limited capability of algae growth and other organic matter that can make the pool green and/or cloudy.

This could be from overgrowth of algae or from a high iron content of your pool water. The first signs of algae will be a slimy feeling along the sides of the pool, followed by a green growth on the walls that can easily be wiped away. If left untreated, algae makes your pool dark green like a pond. You can avoid algae problems by maintaining proper water chemistry and routine pool maintenance. Iron can cause pools to have a green tint even though the water itself is clear. There are water treatments available that can counteract iron and return the water to normal.

If your pool is equipped with a sand filter, then it should be backwashed regularly. With the system off, push the valve down and turn the valve to the backwash position. Turn the system back on and flow will be reversed inside the filter to clean and expel waste through the waste line instead of back into the pool. If you have a valve on the waste line, make sure that it is in the open position, and if a hose is used to expel water, make sure that it is rolled out toward the desired drainage location. You will notice a watch glass on the side of the multiport. When backwashing begins, the water should be opaque. After a few minutes, depending on how dirty the filter is, the water should clear. Shut the system down, and turn the valve to the rinse position. Turn the system back on for 30 to 40 seconds to rinse the filter of any remaining debris. Shut the system down, and return the valve to the filter position to resume normal operation.

During the swimming season, you should expect your pool water level will drop about 1/4 inch per day due to evaporation, splash out and backwashing your filter. The use of a solar blanket will help reduce evaporation. To test for a leak, take a garden pail and use an indelible marker to draw a line about 1 inch from the top. Fill the bucket to the line with water and sit the bucket in the pool on the top step. Accurately mark the pool water level. The easiest way is with a piece of black tape on the leg of your pool ladder. If the water loss from the pool is greater than the water loss from the bucket, then your pool is leaking.

Rain brings all of the airborne pollution – both natural and manmade – that is in the atmosphere right into the pool. You will always have an algae bloom or new algae growing after a rain, so it’s best to super-chlorinate as soon as you can.

The two main causes of eye irritation are too much combined chlorine (greater than 0.2 ppm) and a pH value that’s either .3 greater or less than the normal eye pH, which is between 7.35 and 7.45. It’s important to monitor your water chemistry regularly. Some people also have sensitivity to various shocking chemicals, so use those based on your water needs – not based on the calendar.

Mid-October is usually best, before the leaves begin to fall and the ambient temperature is cooler. When the temperature is cooler, it leaves less opportunity to allow for algae growth underneath the cover, which may complicate opening the pool the following season. It is important to winterize your pool before freezing temperatures to prevent freeze damage.